Fabrication
Sarah Baker
Being fashion-forward in a town that’s hardly so is one thing, being forward thinking is entirely another. A group of engaging young Omaha artists is using the city’s most experimental art venue to prove it’s both.
Omaha artist and designer Peter Fankhauser gathered together three other artists who create fiber-based art for "Fabrication," which opened in August in the Bemis Underground. The work centers on familial memory and the fairy-tale phrase: "Over the river and through the woods, to grandmother’s house we go."
The pieces also focus on activities usually seen as "craft"–sewing, crochet, knit and embroidery–that, in this case, are elevated to fine art. The show features designs by Fankhauser and fellow designer Alexia Madara, large-scale fiber sculpture by Erin Onkka and photography by Natalie Sorenson.
The opening night will feature a runway show with models sporting couture designs–Fankhauser and Madara created about 60 ensembles for the event. Fankhauser’s outfits are composed of layers of light and heavy fabric pieced together. One skirt is a sliver of brocade over fluffy tulle. A long crochet gown drapes into a cape-like train. Menswear includes screen-printed shirts, embroidered jackets and slim pants.
"For me, these fabrics really trigger the mechanism of memory," he said. "At the same time, the pieces themselves are pretty contemporary. I can see them being worn by someone just walking down the street."
Fankhauser said contemporary designers do not inspire him, although he admires Alexander McQueen and Junya Wantanabe. "I feel I am most influenced from past time periods," he said. "But I think the narrative definitely makes the clothes more accessible."
Onkka’s sculpture fits with Fankhauser’s narrative. Onkka’s large-scale sculptures, constructed from thick, six-ply jute, stand as a backdrop to the exhibition. Onkka uses the largest possible crochet hook to stitch her work. One sculpture is an 8-foot-tall exoskeleton covered with fabric so that viewers can walk into the piece.
Sorenson’s photography captures images of moss, leaves and bark–natural fiber that she molds into scenes and photographs at close range.
Ultimately, Fankhauser said he hopes this show will set the stage for Omaha artists who want to explore fashion as art.
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